Behind The Scenes at Kosh

Stamford Magazine's editor gets the real scoop on this posh new restaurant

I arrived at Kosh on Prospect Street and was amazed. What a great modern look, so different from anything I had seen at this location over the years. And inside it is bright and airy, a welcome change from the dark spaces that had once been common here. Perfect for lunch, I thought, and now that it’s warm, I expect I’ll be stopping by with friends for after-dinner drinks.

But party plans had to wait. I was here for a photo shoot. Our reviewer Valerie Foster had written about her positive experiences dining here, and we wanted to capture some of what she described.

It was Friday morning, and Photographer Gus Cantavero and Art Director Garvin Burke were already styling the Smoked Meat Platter (Garvin likes to arrive early to take advantage of natural daylight, and photograph the food before the restaurant opens for lunch, which is when Gus then captures the space and the crowds.)

As soon as they were done, the platter was set aside and out came steaming bowls of Chicken Soup with Matzah Balls and Jewish Won Ton Soup, followed by a Smokin’ Joe Lieberman Sandwich, the Beef Short Ribs and Bananas Singapore. While everyone worked, restaurant owner, Glenn Karow, asked, “Why don’t you try some?”

We’ve run into this scenario before, and are always tempted to take a bite. “Otherwise it goes to waste,” Glenn added. So we did a taste test. Here are our impressions:

• Smoked Meat Platter: the brisket, corned beef and turkey were tender and moist, and the smoky flavors were just right. Loved the garlic and half-sour pickles, a crunchy excellence and a perfect contrast to the meats.
• The Chicken Soup: the matzah balls were light, smooth to the taste in a rich chicken broth. Lots of vegetables too, which I like in any soup.
• The Smokin’ Joe Lieberman Sandwich: We didn’t taste the sandwich but we nibbled on the crispy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside French fries. Pass the ketchup please.
• Short Ribs: These, served with caramelized onions, were rich and tender. We could have eaten the gravy with a spoon.
• Bananas Singapore: Valerie was right. This is big enough for a table of four to share, and if you love caramelized bananas, this one is for you.

While Gus and Garvin tinkered with the dessert, I asked Glenn about its name. He explained that a similar dish he had shared with his wife on their honeymoon twenty-seven years ago had inspired it. So I assumed that their trip had been to Singapore. That would have been too obvious. “Nope,” he said, with a big smile. “Acapulco.”

The scoop on the Grape Soda: It’s mostly liquor, save for a splash of club soda, but it is yummy, like a Jolly Rancher candy, Gus said. So if you’re feeling festive one late night, ask Glenn to make you one. And tell him we sent you.